Creating a Period-Correct Suit

1920s

The suits of the 1920s were styled with narrow lapels, a natural shoulder line and narrow trousers. The following guide will help you create a period-style suit. However, as can be seen in the illustrations, these suits can be created with a range of features depending on whether you want a smart or casual looking suit.

Single Breasted Jacket

The most suitable starting point is the Eden Jacket.

For a smarter looking suit select the following details:

  • Lapel Style – Peak or Fishmouth
  • Breast Pocket – Welt
  • Hip Pockets – Straight Jet
  • Back Style – Plain Back
  • Button Closure – Two (or One button if you want to show off the waistcoat)
  • Cuff Buttons – Four
  • Edge Stitching – None or 1mm

For a more casual look select the following details:

  • Lapel Style – Notch
  • Breast Pocket – Pleated Button Patch AG10
  • Hip Pockets – Pleated Button Patch
  • Back Style – Plain Back
  • Button Closure – Two or Three
  • Cuff Buttons – Two
  • Edge Stitching – 3mm.

Double Breasted Jacket

The most suitable starting point is the King Cole DB Jacket.  For a smarter looking suit select the following details:

  • Lapels – Peak or Fishmouth
  • Breast Pocket – Welt
  • Hip Pockets – Straight Jet
  • Back Style – Plain Back
  • Closure – Two
  • Cuff Buttons – Four
  • Edge Stitching – None or 1mm.

Waistcoat

Both single and double breasted waistcoats were popular during this period. The double breasted waistcoat was primarily worn with smarter suits, in particular with a peak lapel jacket.

Trousers

For the correct trouser style select the following details:

  • Trouser Style – Straight Leg Fishtail
  • Pleats – One Inward Pleat 
  • Coin Pocket – Button Flap
  • Hem Finish – 4cm Turn Up
  • Waistband – Side Adjusters
  • Back Pocket – Any style you like
  • N.B. for more casual suits, select a standard waistband (rather than fishtail back) and add belt loops.

Trouser tips: From the mid-1920s onwards, suit trousers were worn wider. For this style: 

  • Trouser Style – Wide Fishtail
  • Pleats – Two Inward Pleats
  • When entering the measurement of the trouser hem, reduce the hem width by 4cm.

Recommended Cloths

Pin stripes, narrow multi-stripes and Prince-of-Wales checks are among the favourite cloths seen during this period. Herringbone weaves, complete with a coloured stripe, are also a good alternative. Plain flannel wools, in grey or navy, are a good choice for a formal suit. For a more casual suit, bold checks and flecked wools are a good choice.

1930s - 40s

The 1930s saw the emergence of a distinct style of suit, with wide lapels and wide trousers, often with ‘fancy backs’, and made in boldly striped or checked fabrics.  This style, which continued through the 1940s, came with many variations, which can be selected for your suit. The following guide will help you create a period-style suit, however, these suits can be created with a range of features depending on whether you want a smart or casual looking suit. 

Single Breasted Jacket

The most suitable starting point is the King Cole Jacket. 

For a smarter looking suit select the following details:

  • Lapel Style – Wide Peak or Wide Notch
  • Breast pocket – Welt
  • Hip Pockets – Straight Jet
  • Back Style – Plain Back
  • Button Closure – Three
  • Cuff Buttons – Four
  • Edge Stitching – None or 1mm
  • Shoulder Style – For a mid 1930s look, select Smooth Firm.

For a more casual look select the following details:

  • Lapel Style – Wide Notch or Wide Peak
  • Breast Pocket – Pleated Patch
  • Hip Pockets – Pleated Patch
  • Back Style – Select a belt-back with your favourite style of pleats (no vent)
  • Button Closure – Two
  • Cuff Buttons – Three
  • Edge Stitching – 3mm or 6mm
  • Shoulders – For a mid 1930s look, select Firm.

Double Breasted Jacket

The most suitable starting point is the King Cole DB Jacket. 

For a smarter looking suit select the following details:

  • Lapel Style – Wide Peak
  • Breast Pocket – Welt
  • Hip Pockets – Straight Jet
  • Back – Plain Back (no vent)
  • Button Closure – Three
  • Cuff Buttons – Four
  • Edge Stitching – None or 1mm
  • Shoulders – For a mid 1930s look, select Firm

For a more casual look select the following details:

  • Lapel Style – Wide Notch
  • Breast Pocket – Pleated Patch
  • Hip Pockets – Pleated Patch
  • Back Style – Select a belt-back with your favourite style of pleats (no vent)
  • Button Closure – Two
  • Cuff Buttons – Three
  • Edge Stitching – 3mm or 6mm
  • Shoulders – For a mid 1930s look, select Firm.

Waistcoat

Both single and double breasted waistcoats were popular during this period. The double breasted waistcoat was often associated with a more flashy style of suit, often favoured by younger men.

Trousers

For the correct trouser style select the following details:

  • Wide leg
  • Two inward facing pleats
  • Coin Pocket with a button flap
  • 5cm Turn-Ups
  • Side Adjusters
  • Belt loops are suitable for more casual suits
  • Rear pockets (choose your favoured style).

Recommended Cloths

Multi-stripe worsted flannels or Prince-of-Wales checks are among the most popular and distinctive cloths seen during this period. Plain flannel cloth, in grey or navy, are a good choice for a formal suit. For a more casual suit, bold checks and flecked wools are a good choice. 

1950s - 60s

The 1950s saw British suits becoming increasingly streamlined, with narrower lapels and trousers than the years before. The style, which harked back to the 1920s but was also inspired by equestrian tailoring and continental styles, created a look that continues to inspire men with a taste for classic British tailoring.  During the early 1960s suits became increasingly slimline with young men abandoning waistcoats and choosing suits in lightweights and brighter colours. 

Single Breasted Jacket

The most suitable starting point is the Hacking Jacket.

For the classic late fifties/early sixties style suit select the following details:

  • Lapels – Notch (check width on pattern – 8cm would be about right for this style)
  • Breast pocket – Welt
  • Hip Pockets – Straight Jet
  • Back - Plain Back (no vent)
  • Closure – Three Button
  • Cuff Buttons – Four
  • Edge stitching – None

For a more equestrian style hacking jacket style, select the following details:

  • Lapels – Notch
  • Breast Pocket – Welt or Welt Flap
  • Hip Pockets – Angled Jet Ticket
  • Back – Plain back Single Vent or Side Vents
  • Closure – Three Button
  • Cuff Buttons – Four
  • Edge Stitching – 3mm.

Waistcoat

Single breasted waistcoats were the favoured style during this period.

Trousers

For the correct trouser style, select the following details:

  • Straight Trousers
  • Two inward facing pleats
  • Coin Pocket with a button flap
  • 4cm Turn-Ups
  • Side Adjusters
  • Rear pockets (choose your favoured style)
  • When entering the size of the trouser hem, reduce the hem width by 4cm.

Recommended Cloths

Subtly striped worsted flannels or Prince-of-Wales checks are among the most popular and distinctive cloths seen during this period. Plain flannel cloth, in grey or navy, are a good choice for a formal suit. For a traditional equestrian styled suit, cavalry twill is the ideal fabric, however, subtle checks are also a good choice.